Commercial Gems vs Precision Faceting:

Cutting for Profit vs Cutting for Beauty

You might be familiar with the 4 C’s of diamond and gemstone grading. (color, clarity, carat, and cut). In this article we will expand on the importance of proper cutting, which is the most complex of the 4 C's.

In today’s gem market, roughly 95% of colored stones are cut purely to maximize weight and minimize time investment. Since a gem's value is largely determined by carat size, commercial stones are almost exclusively cut to prioritize yield over beauty. Facet-grade minerals are found in various irregular shapes, and the best way to maximize the weight of a gem is to simply cut and polish facets around the irregular form.

While it is much easier to convince unknowing customers of a 'great deal' on a larger stone, the customer must remember that this additional size gain comes at a steep price. Sloppy faceting arrangements and a complete lack of symmetry make for a visually unimpressive gem, regardless of its size.

"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after

the sweetness of low price is forgotten." -Benjamin Franklin

The art of precision faceting focuses on maximizing the brilliance and revealing the true beauty of each mineral being polished. This is performed using state of the art machinery in combination with studying the physics of light. The optimal angles where brilliance is highest falls within a very small and unforgiving range.

This makes it difficult to fit such a precise and symmetrical object inside of a non-uniform crystal. Extensive planning is required before the right design can be chosen, often with the aid of specialized CAD programs to create customized diagrams. Even with such effort and attention to detail throughout every step, it is physically impossible to cut a precision gemstone to be the same size as a lopsided commercial gem would have been.

Cutting for Profit: Quantity Over Quality

Commercial cutting is all about efficiency and yield. The goal is to maximize profits by keeping as much weight from the rough crystals as

possible, and to spend the least amount of time cutting each stone.

• Process: Fast and standardized, focused on keeping weight and minimizing time. Stones are often cut in an 'assembly line' manner, rapidly passing through many sets hands at different stages.

• Tools: Basic lapidary machinery, often lacking the precision features needed for making fine adjustments.

• Skill Level: Moderate; cutters are often trained for output rather than artistry, custom design, and overall quality.

• Result: Poor polishing, sloppy faceting arrangements, and a general lack of symmetry/balance.

For sellers, this translates to higher margins. For buyers, it means paying for carats that don’t equate to beauty. More often than not, cutting for profit results in a lifeless stone, robbed of its brilliance, fire, and individuality.

“Shopping for diamonds by the carat is like shopping for a racehorse by the pound.

The Dutch invariably work by

the piece; the more they finish within a given time, the more money they make. Consequently,

the work is slighted; the stones thick, clumsy and ill-shaped with

beauty being sacrificed for weight.” -Henry D. Morse,

Henry D. Morse, The Father of American

Diamond Cutting and pioneer of the modern

round brilliant cut.

Cutting for Beauty: A Labor of Love

Artisan precision faceting is about unlocking each unique gem’s full potential. While it is important to preserve the starting material to maximize the yield of the finished gem, this is never done at the expense of symmetry or design aesthetic.

• Process: Each stone is studied individually, designs are chosen to maximize brilliance, color. Extensive amounts of time are spent, ensuring even the smallest details are given proper attention.

• Tools: Precision faceting machines with fine adjustment features, often paired with design software programs such as GemCutStudio to create custom diagrams.

• Skill Level: High; A trained eye, patience, and an understanding of light physics is required.

• Result: Uniquely crafted gemstones with exceptional brilliance, balance, beauty, and presence.

For Artisans, this equates to much higher production costs, which naturally must be accounted for with higher consumer prices when compared to their commercial counterparts. For buyers, this means they are investing in a gemstone with a cut quality in the top ~5%, and one that has been truly crafted in collaboration with Nature.

Rare Exceptions

For elite-level rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and other rare collector stones, the rough is so scarce and valuable that retaining weight sometimes makes sense to meet market demand. Even then, master cutters carefully balance weight with performance to avoid sacrificing too much beauty.

Closing Thoughts

For the vast majority of gemstones, cutting for beauty is always the superior choice. While most of the gem trade may still favor cutting for weight, experienced collectors and connoisseurs agree that the true beauty can only be revealed by fine artistry. Here at Drummond Gems & Jewlery, these are the clients we cater our craftsmanship towards.

Thanks for taking the time to read this article. Please feel free to reach out if you have any questions about our precision faceted gems.

Bryan D. Drummond,

Drummond Gems & Jewelry